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Introduction

This diary was written in 1993 and is two volumes in length. I was 19 at the time and I have to admit that some of it does make me cringe today! I've tried a couple of times to put it all on the net and at the moment what you see is less than half, but the rest will follow eventually.

25/2/93 - Chorleywood, England

Today marks the beginning of my adventure. Having said a fond farewell to my brother, sister and grandma I am now ready for all the challenges of Nepal.

At the moment I am not quite sure just how this diary will unfold, but I hope that I can give a true impression of what lies ahead.

Since two weeks ago I have been saying my goodbyes to all my friends, family and workmates and at last I am actually leaving. At the moment it is raining and my baggage lies at the bottom of the stairs; unpacked from the car after driving down with my parents. Right now six months seems an awfully long time. After reading so many books I have my head filled with wild romantic ideas of man versus nature - man versus beast - well now it's time to find out - myth or reality...

26/27 02 1993 - Kathmandu - Thucke Peaks Guest House

It was an emotional farewell - Mum crying and although I was sad to leave them I was excited at the prospect of my journey beginning. Several hours later after a successful takeoff from Gatwick and landing/takeoff from Frankfurt the usual plastic dinners were served to us. As the night wore on we were issued army style with black blindfolds as we approached Dubai. Suddenly turbulence shook the plane and sat, eyes covered, plane shaking, my mind flashed back to Brian Keenans autobiography of Beirut. I was a hostage trapped at 34,000 ft. Cheap duty free in Dubai and sun shinning 15°C at 8:00 am.

Again we climbed into the sky knowing this time that Kathmandu to be our next and final port. We (about 10 Gap Students), flew over the southern half of Iran - barren - then India - flat - and suddenly after several hours we began to ascend over the foothills of Nepal.

It was an embracing entrance as the plane was maneuvered over the terraces that I've only ever seen before in books, and then we plunged to a safe landing in Kathmandu.

Kathmandu airport and it's persuasive porters and taxi drivers are a story in themselves, and after paying to get through customs (!), I was safely received, tired and bemused, by a GAP minibus - thank God!

We drove through the streets of Kathmandu and I found it strange at first - beggars, then businessmen; poor house, rich house. It seems the person with the loudest horn in Kathmandu has right of way.

I eventually found a room sharing with a girl called Natasha, and I met my GAP Partner Richard - we seem to get on well. Went for a drink and a meal - cost 135 rupees - veg. fried rice and a beer! Had no sleep so far and am exhausted. Hope to do some shopping tomorrow. First impression: Strange, daunting, awkward.

28/02 1993 - Host House, Kathmandu

Due to my room being situated above the main road in Thamel, I only managed a couple of hours sleep. We brunched around 10:30 and then decided to look around Kathmandu. We saw all the temples of Durbar Square and the living Goddess came out of her high apartment at our request - it cost 20 rupees - a 'perfect girl' regarded as a living Goddess until the age of puberty. After several hours exploring we returned to Thuche Peaks to remove our luggage.

Richard and I were rather annoyed about having a host family during the orientation week - what a joke!! As we left Thucke Peak, taking our final look at the guesthouse toilet, thinking it to be our last, we began our walk through Kathmandu, luggage and all, to find a taxi to the house of 'Doctor Purda' - this turned out to the cushiest place in all of Kathmandu!! We had a three storey marble staircase, a waiter, a cleaner and general butler. Surely this is not Nepal? Seem to be getting along with Richard perfectly. Today's word: SAVED. P.s. Had my first real Nepali meal - their chutney is a bit hotter than ours!

01/03 1993 Host House, Kathmandu

Today was the first day of our orientation course. Last night I was still suffering the effects of Jet Lag and despite my best efforts I still found sleeping difficult. We got up around 07:30 and had a breakfast of Pratata Bread and Jam - very nice. Dr Purda then drove us to the Palace from which, after finding two of the girls (they were lost), we found are way to the 'Social Welfare Centre'. We were all given talks on culture and the school system in Nepal. Language classes were very interesting and at lunch time I went into Thamel and bought a jacket and trousers - very colorful!

This day nearly turned into a nightmare as Richard and I seemed to get lost in Kathmandu for 1 1/2 hours. We ended up walking in the dark backstreets without a clue where we were and where we lived!

Using our rusty navigation skills we eventually found our 'Palace' and we sat down to enjoy a good dose of Daal Bhaat (traditional rice and vegetable dish with lentils). After tea we watched a movie and then retired to bed where we had a deep and meaningful conversation with Ajay (younger brother of the doctor), concerning culture. Today's word: EXPERIENCE

02/03 1993 Host House, Kathmandu

Last night I slept like a baby and awoke this morning to glorious sunshine. We slightly overslept and dressed quickly so that we could eat a couple of fried eggs before leaving for our days schooling. Since we now knew our way, we caught a motorised rickshaw at 'meter plus 30%', and only arrived five minutes late.

For half a day we were outside and we had plenty of laughs at lunchtime in Thamel, and met plenty of new and interesting people. Princess Diana arrived in Kathmandu today but so far we have not seen her. None of the people in Kathmandu look the same; native/Tibetan/Indian etc. there's also a strange smell to the place - food, incense, hash and the streets themselves. Tomorrow should be fun - sightseeing and then an all-night party at Thuche Peaks. Today's Word: ADJUSTED p.s have still not managed to contact home!

03/03 1993 Host House, Kathmandu

We left the house after breakfast packed with a few essentials for a half days sightseeing then a night at Thuche Peaks Guesthouse in order to celebrate Ben and Jane's birthdays. We completed a couple of hours lessons and then drove in the minibus round the towns Pakpatur and Patan. The scenery through the Kathmandu valley was amazing and we saw many temples and burning bodies by the river on wooden platforms - rather a nasty smell! I took plenty of photos (roll1:8-18). We were all dropped off back in Thamel and Richard, Gilbert and myself booked ourselves in and proceeded to get completely wasted before meeting the others for beers next-door. After beers came the meal and songs rang out through the streets that night - it was great! After more beers (!), we all went back to Tuche Peak and got wasted some more. I eventually crawled into bed and slept in my clothes.

04/03 1993 Host House, Kathmandu

Today has turned out to be a really special day. This is the day that I managed to post my letters home, used the black-market and saw a working elephant strip dead branches from trees in the centre of Kathmandu! When we woke we all felt tired and ill from the night before - a few exploding stomachs in the toilet! I ate two poached eggs in the restaurant with black tea. I seem to have developed quite a taste for black tea. Arrived for lectures on time (09:00) but today was extremely boring. At lunch I bargained for a hand-stitched bag (paid 200 rupees), to carry our supplies of toilet paper to Ilam (teaching destination in N. East Nepal). Some people tell us that there are no mosquitoes in Ilam - we're not so sure.

Up to today my bowel movements have been normal but many of the others are suffering. Learning Nepali is proving quite tough but it is slowly beginning to sink in. Richard and I are getting damned good with rickshaws - where ever we go we only pay them 20 rupees - what bastards! Richard plans to try and pull our Nepali teacher on Saturday - what an idiot.

05/03 1993 Host House, Kathmandu

Got up as usual - ate breakfast (Nepali style), then walked to 'school', arriving late due to Om's appearance at our hosts house around 8:30 am.

One thing I haven't mentioned so far is the awful pollution that hangs permanently above Kathmandu. Cyclists, rickshaws, auto-rickshaws, cars, buses and people all combine to create the strangest atmosphere of old and new - air choking, and many people walk around with air filters strapped over their mouths. I am getting used to cows being allowed wherever they choose and stray dogs that pose no threat - why did I have the rabies injections?

This evening our host 'Ajay' took Richard and myself for a real Nepali supper in a posh restaurant called the 'Kitchen'. I was surprised that all the waiters spoke in English - apparently this signifies wealth and a good education. Saw also some brilliant ancient architecture. Week 1 completed.

06/03 1993 Thucke Peak Guesthouse, Kathmandu

Arrived for lessons at 9:00 am to meet a teacher from Fikkal. Out of all the teachers he looked the poorest and we soon found out that our living place has not yet been determined. Despite his looks he seems a nice bloke and the headmaster from Karfoc seems a real Gent. Today our impression of 'friendly Kathmandu' was shattered by the story of Gilbert - our friendly 6ft"3 giant from Stoke. Last night, whilst shopping we lost Gilbert. A plain-clothed guy asked him to hold a bag, and Gilbert obliged, then this chap produced Police ID and arrested Gilbert for holding drugs. Gilbert, in shock, whilst walking to the Police Station, surrendered his passport, and after 3/4 of an hour paid this man $200 to let him go. We were all shaken by this tale and it has already cast a shadow over our impression of Nepal. Many volunteers have been or are ill - I am still perfectly OK. Moved back to Thucke Peak until Wednesday - departure date. Tomorrow is 'Water-Bomb' day - watch out tourists. Tonight had a dinner in Kantipath with headmasters and hosts. Orientation is now over.

07/03 1993 Thucke Peak Garden, Kathmandu

Today has been quite unbelievable. Because it is 'Holy Day' we thought that we might be hit by the odd water-bomb/paint-bomb - wrong!!

Today we were slaughtered with paint, water-bombs, black kerosene mix and if you escaped with only your head covered you were lucky! We had breakfast with Dr. Shresta and lunch with our friends back at Thucke Peaks, after a couple of hours with Gilberts/Tristrams hosts house throwing paint. The sight of everyone in Kathmandu completely red/yellow is quite strange - but it was good fun.

Over the last hour we have really said goodbye to everyone departing to their placements. Despite only being together for eight days we have all found a common bond and become good friends. We talked about teaching and only now do we realise just how long we are here for, and that we are not here on holiday. Tonight we will probably go out for a meal - last chance pampering. I am still well but had my first slightly 'loose movement' ten minutes ago. Feeling content with my cup of black tea.

08/03 1993 Thucke Peaks, Kathmandu

This morning involved delivering a letter to my parents at the G.P.O. and then spending at least one hour in Royal Nepali Airlines office trying, unsuccessfully, to find a flight home at the end of August. For lunch Richard and I went to our host families house to say goodbye. This proved to be a good move as Ajay said he would help organizing my flight.

We met our Fikkal teacher at the bus station at three o'clock to find that we cannot book our tickets until tomorrow, and that due to Sophie being ill, the Karfoc girls will be traveling with us to Ilam on Wednesday.

The weather is extremely hot at the moment but so far I have not burnt. Tomorrow we intend to go shopping for supplies and prepare our equipment for departing. Also tomorrow, most of us Gappers begin teaching - this seems scary and I know that everyone is very nervous. Gilbert, Tristram, Natasha and Tanya will still be in the bus to Surcet at the moment - can't wait until it's our turn! I'm missing ordering a safe medium steak, but have had a good evening at the Everest Steak House.

09/03 1993 Thucke Peaks, Kathmandu

Today has to of been my worst day so far. I woke early feeling fine but as soon as I got up I felt severely ill. I ran to the bathroom and, well, it was not nice. Within minutes I was convinced I had Guardia and was seriously regretting the huge steak I ate last night. Feeling weak I proceeded to eat two poached eggs for breakfast and then Ben and I rented two bikes and took a cycle round the Kathmandu valley. I arrived at Ajay's around 11:30 am - EXPLOSION! - once again the shits hit me, but undeterred I managed some rice for lunch. When I eventually arrived back at the Guest House, I dropped off the bike and took two Lomotil before going to bed. Ten minutes later it happened again - as I approached the toilet I became aware that the water supply had now been cut-off - lovely, and I could not even get in position thanks to the person before me! I dashed upstairs, and fighting the flies from the second loo I made touchdown. Since 15:00 I have been OK and am praying that I will be alright for the bus journey tomorrow. Missing home today - only ate Arrowroot biscuits.

10th & 11/03 Fikkal; NE Nepal

The journey began in Kathmandu. Still ill I was expecting a bad time but nothing could prepare me for what lay ahead. Firstly the bus driver was insane, and as we wound our way out of the Kathmandu valley we gathered speed. I reckon we must have hit 80mph down those bumpy narrow roads and I was constantly hitting my head on the roof of the bus! Sat at the back we were shaken around for a dismal twenty hours, unable to eat sleep or shit (due to the Imodium). As the journey wore on I became more and more ill, ending by my being sick on route. As we drove through the Terai we all realised just how far away from safety we really are; this scares me and I am very worried.

The scenery is undeniably beautiful - it is just like traveling back in time; smokey kitchen, wattle and daub - indescribable.

When we arrived in Fikkal it soon came apparent that Richard and I had nowhere to stay, and due to my weak health I was unable to help unpack the bus. I sat down and munched some arrowroot biscuits. Fikkal on first impressions is small, dirty and not very friendly - so far we have not really been made to feel welcome. In some ways we are very angry with Christine Russell (GAP coordinator). We have no water, nowhere to live and the locals do not seem to understand our need for boiled water etc. I have once again got serious diarrhea - not very pleasant in squat toilets - the art of which I still have not mastered. Where do you put your trousers? - below the knee, above? my sense of balance is also causing me some problems. The medical guide according to my symptoms tells me to stop eating - but I haven't eaten properly for three days! Writing this diary has helped me to feel more relaxed but I am more homesick than ever. I miss Mum, Dad, Pete, Ange, Gran, Lucy, the cats, running drinkable water, shower, my room, everything. I realise just how much I love you all and just thinking about you is making me cry!

We have so far no washing facilities and I am sure that eating with our hands is making us ill. Richard is really being a tower of strength to me - I don't think he realises but I'm putting on a brave face. I'm sure that in time everything will be alright. Staying in village Chiefs cowshed tonight.

12/03 1993 Fikkal, Chiefs House

Woke up early feeling much better after only eating biscuits yesterday. Richard now appears to be ill - biscuit treatment. After some Daal Bhaat for breakfast in the local shed I managed to teach my first 'unprepared' lesson in the local school to a class of about 20 children. I started off well but after 25 minutes I ran out of ideas and the kids began to lose concentration. Today Fikkal seems slightly more bearable - mid you we still have nowhere to stay and it seems we will have to buy a stove to cook with.

I told Karlyan that I wished to wash and after some debate I was shown the way down the mountain to a bamboo tap. Here surrounded by beautiful scenery, tea plantations, jungle, cows and small mud huts I began to wash - there were soon a few villagers watching me!

Richard wants to go home (to Kathmandu), however I am now determined to have a go and see what happens. Still got the shits.

13/03 1993 Fikkal, Chiefs House

Feeling better. Ate eggs for breakfast and in the afternoon went to Karfoc to see Catherine and Sophie. Karfoc is beautiful and the girls have an ideal set-up. It seems that Richard and I have a huge metaphorical mountain to climb - but how does one start climbing when everything we eat and drink poisons us? Is this really the challenge that I came for? Teaching is still something that we have not even considered and I now feel that if we do continue teaching the issues with our living conditions will not be resolved within the near future. Buying our own cooking equipment and food is now a likely prospect and hopefully we can rent a room for a cheap price. Twenty minutes ago I had my first relatively solid Fikkal dump, unfortunately Richard is unable to do the same! This evening we met the Peace Corp Volunteer, Kenneth. He seems a great guy and we envy his three month training and back-up provisions. Hopefully he will be able to help us get organised and it is good to know we have help in an emergency. Received my first letter from Laura.

14/03 1993, Fikkal Chiefs House

Feeling much better today - the going is good to firm! Despite this however, Richard is feeling very ill and demoralised. Today I bought a huge water filter and stove and we began boiling eggs and having nice clean drinking water. Richard keeps telling me how thin I look - sod off! I'll never be as thin as you mate! Because I am feeling better things are looking good. Teaching today was no problem and the teachers stand outside my classroom listening and watching. They like the way I involve the class as they are used to simply dictating. The children are really good but the class sizes are growing as more kids enroll for the summer term. Some of the children are really bright and they always come up with the answers. I try to give the others more of a chance, especially the girls as they are extremely shy - I am beginning fall into a routine and things will be much better once we have found a permanent home. I am taking Richard for a wash this evening - his face is now black with dirt and he's smelling like a chief!

15/03 1993, Fikkal Chiefs House

This morning we have found a nice house to live in and there is plenty of space for both of us and guests as well. The view behind is magnificent. We can see right down the valley and the sun is permanently gleaming on the back of the house where we can sit and read - lovely. Had my first solid dump this morning. This experience has changed my life and Fikkal is appearing more hospitable by the day. The day has also been marked by the reappearance of our sense of humors. Teaching today was really good - Richard stayed in bed - I taught comparative adjectives and the lessons in class eight and nine went really well. At lunch time I walked to Karfoc on my own while Richard recovered at home. The sun was hot and I climbed a hill amongst the tea plantations, and just sat for a while - really mellow. This evening Kenny brought me two letters - one from Gran and one from Jo Syer. These have cheered me up even more but also made me miss home. I must begin to pack now for our big move tomorrow. had excellent Dahl Bhaat this evening!

16/03 1993, Fikkal 'Our Place - The Shack!'

We moved house early, loading our possessions into a Land-Rover about 8am and driving to our new house. We have several rooms in our wood-shack. The view is lovely and we collect our water from a bamboo gutter in amongst the jungled valley. It is a beautiful spot and I had my best wash - full scrub - so far in Fikkal! We have boiled plenty of water for drinking and I stuck my pictures on the wall. Ate roti bread in Fikkal for lunch and had great Daal Bhaat in Fikkal Shed Hotel this evening. Richard is so thin at the moment but his is now good to firm at the latest attempt , so things should improve! We did not teach today and were supposed to pick up our schedules but due to teachers fighting in the staffroom (!?!) - can you believe - things have been put on hold until after a meeting tomorrow. The last thirty minutes we have endured a visit from Karlyansir. He is such a twit and can really get on ones nerves. Nepal, despite being completely insane, is an interesting place to be!

17/03 1993, Fikkal Base camp - The Shack

After a breakfast of boiled eggs, Richard and I, smartly dressed, turned into school for 10am (I did my first washing this morning). The staff meeting did not get underway until 11am so I sat and wrote letters in the staff room. School was eventually cancelled for the day, and so Kenny, Richard and myself went to eat Momos in the Tibetans shop for lunch. After lunch we came home and sat in the grass outside and read for a couple of hours. The girls came to visit and during the afternoon some bread and cheese was delivered by the local shopkeeper. This evening Kenny and I ate Daal Bhaat alone since Richard appears to be coming down with Guardia. If this diagnosis is correct we will have to travel to Ilam tomorrow to get an official diagnosis and he will leave a stool sample at the clinic. Teaching seems to be avoiding me at the moment and I hope that the school will not see us as timewasters. I am starting to take a serious liking to the local brew - Chang. It is not very strong but settles well. Received no mail today. Tomorrow is market day!!

18/03 1993, Rave House...

Today started out as a normal day - I taught classes 8 and 9 but then something funny happened! The story began in the Bizarre - Kenny, Richard and I went shopping for house and the evening soirée we were planning. I started cooking in the afternoon while Richard and Kenny went to bake a cake. After preparation was finished I sat outside talking, reading and listening to music (not all at the same time), and then Katherine and Sophie arrived with 5 litres of Chang! We all sat down about 7pm for our meal when Karlyans voice rang out: "Sophie - friends arrived"... Three girls suddenly appeared from nowhere - travelers of insanity - the party began - we ate, we drank and smoked. We talked, laughed, criticised then the dreaded Karlyan began to knock.. completely pissed out of his brains - "James, I want to talk to James" (I think I must have passed out here!)

19/03 1993, Part 1: 07:20 am

Last night we tasted chocolate, beer and had a real laugh. I still cannot believe what happened: "I just want to help you!" [Karlyan]. The girls slept on the floor - they had a few sleeping bags and Karlyan donated his mattress and pillows. The girls didn't get much sleep and left early to buy bus tickets to Kathmandu, and then walk to Karfoc. Today the headmaster and a few teachers won't be at school but I think we shall teach a couple of lessons. I'm not sure how to address Karlyan this morning - I'll wait and see how the day develops. Part 2: 14:00 - I have just arrived home after meeting the three new girls and booking them onto the Kathmandu bus to find that Richard has let the Nepalis remove my bed from our room! I can't believe it! I've now got no bed - this is mad. What next? Part 3: Took some kids to play football and after completely killing ourselves for one hour arrived home to find a new bed waiting outside to be installed. After brushing most of the spiders off, things were back to normal. Ate Daal Bhaat in Fikkal and walked home about 19:30 under an amazing display of stars. Today has been windy and our whole shack is humming.

20/03 1993, The Shack

Set the alarm for 06:00 but eventually rose at 07:30. After a mad rush of washing down in the jungle and packing my bag we left to catch the bus to Pashpati for our group shopping trip. Met the girls in Fikkal and climbed on top of the bus. Sat amongst Nepali men we sang loads of songs, much to their appreciation as we bungled along through the mountains towards the Indian border. We were disappointed by the fact that there was not wanted to buy and so we sat down with a beer and a Mars bar (luxury), before crossing into India as illegal immigrants to buy some apples. The officials let us do this but we were careful and didn't take long. This evening after eating a hearty amount of Daal Bhaat, Richard and I found time for an in-depth reflection on the previous week and a half in Fikkal.

Also, people keep asking us about the girls in Karfoc - it seems that since they had to stay (due to Karlyan), there has been a local scandal regarding our presumed actions - great!- once more I have to ask; 'whatever next?!?'

11/03 1993, The Shack...

After a restless night we rushed off to catch the 08:30 Ilam bus. The journey was bumpy being on the back seats, squashed in between smelly Nepalis that always ask such stupid questions in terrible English. The bus dropped us off 1km from Ilam after a journey which involved waiting for a puncture to be fixed (roll2), and then an idiot, whilst working on a scree slope 100ft above the road, caused a three tonne boulder to land slap bang in the middle of the road. This was incredible enough, but then we had to wait one hour while one Nepali - armed with a huge hammer - attempted to smash the boulder into smaller chunks so we, and five other buses could pass. About 100 people just stood and watched like British Rail workers.

Ilam - the shopping centre of the entire Mechi Zone, is a poor place and we realised just how deprived the whole region is. After about 1.5 hours shopping for our necessities (i.e. a frying pan), we decided it would be wise to enquire what time the buses returned to Fikkal. After asking in poor Nepali, we were told 18:30. This was bad news since it was only 14:00, so we decided to find somewhere to eat lunch and pass the time. All we could find were fly ridden hovels - which one should we choose? After counting the flies we found one place with under fifty and decided that here the least illness would be served. We all ate and drank tea satisfied that our forthcoming illness had been at least partially justified. We paid and quickly removed ourselves from its sewer like grip and decided to verify the bus information a second time - wise move - 18:30 meant 06:00 - tomorrow! We were stranded in Ilam - and then we saw a lorry leaving. "Fikkal, Fikkal" we shouted. Amazing but we had found our bus. We jumped on the back and, perched on oil drums, we departed for home. Like true travelers we slumbered over valley after valley of beautiful scenery. School children would jump on and we sang to their appreciation. It turned out to be another mad day in Nepal and we returned to the safety of Daal Bhaat in good old Fikkal. (Received letters from Mandy & Sally today! Still not heard from Mum and Dad).

22/03 1993, The Shack

Another weird day in Fikkal. School is still completely disorganised and after teaching two lessons we discovered that Christine and Om had arrived! At lunch time we met them and brought them home. We fed them a real story of our hardships and sent them on an a huge guilt trip. They realised that Fikkal was the hardest placement and they admired the way in which we had struggled through. Om has had a 'big-talk' with the headmaster and hopefully everything will be sorted out tomorrow. This evening we all ate Daal Bhaat and talked for several hours. They have offered us the choice to leave Fikkal for another placement - but despite all our problems we will probably stick it out unless illness beats us. Christine seems to appreciate the hostility we have encountered and the school shall use some of the GAP money to pay our rent and the cost of our cooking equipment. It seems we are bloody hero's! They accept out need for serious holidays - excellent! Tomorrow we shall have pancakes to celebrate. It is also good to know that all the others are enjoying teaching, but according to Christine we are the experienced of the experiencers!!

23/03 1993, The Shack

Quite an uneventful day. Our teaching timetable has been sorted out and we only now teach classes 8 & 9 (Richard does 9 and I do 8), and classes 7 together. This means that we have every afternoon free - excellent. Since Christines visit Fikkal seems slightly more boring and much less challenging. It seems that the challenge of surviving the first couple of weeks makes settling down to teaching far less appealing.

The weather is very dull and a suntan seems impossible. Paid a holy man two rupees today to remove him from our house. Had our first litre of milk straight from the cow downstairs, and we made pancakes for lunch. It seems that the news from home is pretty boring (BBC World Service). I'm halfway through 'Jane Eyre' now and it seems I will have plenty of time to read Hamlet in the near future. I am almost tempted to ask Christine to send us to another remote unfriendly dump so we can experience another challenge of survival!! either this or a holiday resort. Anyway, early to bed - early to rise!

24/03 1993, The Shack - again!

What has happened today? - well not much. To start with the weather is even more overcast and after saying goodbye to Christine and Om we realised that Fikkal - our slum at the top of the world, is a permanent fixture. In the morning I taught my lessons to a rabble class in which 95% are completely doomed to fail. I am determined to organise extra classes for the few bright ones but being in different levels I'm not quite sure how this will work.

After lunch (a cheese and onion sandwich), I washed some clothes, which are still not dry but are in fact dripping on me over my bed as I write! We found out today that the next Wednesday/Thursday is a religious holiday - a small Dasain, so we have asked for Friday off and we are heading for Darjeeling! Five days of freedom from Fikkal - hooray!!

Due to a combination of road dust, chalk dust, high altitude and smoke I am developing a cough  - bollocks. I must get into a routine of planning my lessons. Market day tomorrow.

25/03 1993, The Shack

Part1: Last night I woke experiencing stomach cramps. Hopefully I am over the worst but I'm not going to teach today. What a great way to celebrate my first month away from home. It is raining heavily outside and Richard is just about to leave for school.

Part2 - 11:45: home alone - feeling better. Mist has fallen around our shack like a shroud.

Part3: This afternoon whilst I was sat on the porch reading a lady brought a child to me. The poor little boy had put his hand into boiling water and had severe burns - I think the accident happened yesterday as the skin was very dry and the wrist has started to go yellow. Quite shocked I disinfected the wound and rubbed antiseptic cream into his hand, slowly moving the fingers. After some time I dressed the wound and instructed his mum to see a doctor soon. I also explained the need to keep it clean and moisturize the fingers moving them so the skin doesn't shrink. I can this place turning into a medical centre now!

This evening heard tales of a superb bakery in Darjeeling - can't wait to get there!

26/03 1993, The Shack

Part1 16:30 - Today, my first month completed, I saw my first high Himalaya. Standing at Fikkal School the rainclouds cleared and the sun shone right across the snow covered peaks! It was truly breathtaking and I long to step over the valley and travel amongst them. Today we could also see the flatness of the Terai - also amazing. At school Kenny, Richard and myself were the recipients of a welcome ceremony between hail storms, and we each received a Nepali hat, rhododendrons and a neck scarf. Can you believe that in reply we treated the entire school to one of our famed renditions of 'If you're happy and you know it'.. much to their appreciation!

I can't actually believe how close Fikkal is to the mountains - this evening we are having a smoking session.

Part2: 20:00 - After drinking Chang with some very pissed teachers we walked home under a fantastic natural firework display. Lightening streaked over the Terai continually, and as we looked across it we saw a rainbow of colours explode on the horizons. Richard is now preparing a smoke from the hugest ball of weed I have ever seen! See you tomorrow!!!

27/03 1993 The Shack

Today was not so good. I'm still ill and now suffering from constipation - moral nightmare. Two Peace Corps volunteers arrived in the village today pushing the foreign population to a massive 'five'! The were telling up about the storm we were watching over the Terai - produced hailstones the size of golf balls! I am also annoyed as my 'black pen' seems to have been 'lifted' by one of our visitors.

This morning due to our water source being busy, I was directed to to a water tap in the middle of a potato field where I stripped off to wash. As was going well until I realised that all the people in the field across the valley were watching, and I also appeared to be standing in a pile of cow shit! - god knows what disease will develop from that lovely experience. As usual we ate Daal Bhaat in the evening - mine only a small portion - and then Richard and I concluded the day by getting completely bombed out back at the shack.

28/03 1993, The Shack

At the moment we are late for school and I have just realised how bloody painful constipation in a charpie really is - although the duration of pain seems to be curtailed by the seating arrangements - or lack of them!

Only taught one lesson then came home alone suffering from stomach pains. I sat outside in the sunshine for about an hour. Soon after Richard came home the girls arrived from Karfoc and we discussed our travel arrangements for Darjeeling later this week.

The locals, it appears, seem to be getting used to our presence. When we walk through the 'road gang' only three out of seven workers actually stopped to stare at us now. This is a major breakthrough.

At the moment (19:20), I am feeling much better but I know that some little gem is lurking, just waiting for me in this squalid cess pit of a place. I've still not heard from my parents and had no post for ages!! Because we are at cloud level the weather is constantly changing and our glimpse of the high Himalayas seems to have been a momentary illusion - but I know they're there! World Service News: Former Yugoslavian crisis dominates.

29/03 1993, The Shack 'Chibitarre'

It seems that once again another day has passed calmly enough and I feel that we are making progress regardless of the remoteness and intensity of our situation - remember no electricity, no running water, no road etc! I think this melancholy is mainly due to my desire to wander further through the mountains and valleys, and into the neighboring countries of India, Tibet and Bhutan. I am not bored of Fikkal, although its daily routine although different is tiresome.

Tomorrow afternoon was our planned departure date for Darjeeling, India, but a bus strike may make our trip impossible. This is a major blow since I have clearly visualised a huge cream cake in the renowned bakery. Since lunchtime and after teaching I have felt much better and my appetite is returning. I finished reading Jane Eyre today - really enjoyed the novel. As usual we ate Daal in our little shed - something I quite enjoy in the evening. I have given up Chang - it is probably my source of illness.

30/03 1993, The Shack - Party House

Teaching this morning was most triumphant and I taught three lessons - hangman seems a big success. We have failed to reach Darjeeling today but there is a prospect of catching a ride early tomorrow morning.

After Kenny, Katherine, Sophie, Richard and myself had taken Daal Bhaat, in huge quantities, we walked home to our house and began to munch on our 'Space Cake' - specially prepared beforehand at Kennys. After several smokes everyone was completely stoned - Katherine managed to puke though our floor boards onto the family down below - unbelievable! We seem to be constantly abusing our 'lovely friends' downstairs - although I doubt they'll even notice puke dangling about.

At the moment I am sat (08:20), in Chibitarre waiting for a ride to Darjeeling - I'm so desperate for a shower and a good meal - please let me get there soon. Anyhow there is only two and a half weeks till our trek begins - this I cannot wait for. 08:45 - Just traveled in a lorry standing in the back up through some amazing scenery in the shadow of Kanchenjunga!!!!

31/03 1993 - Birtamod, Terai Region Nepal

Oh My God! - we (that is Richard and I), have just been through another unbelievable experience. After an amazing ride we arrived in Kakavita ready to pass into India. However it seems that you can only obtain visas in Kathmandu - bollocks! After seeing the girls on their way (they picked up visas for India as part of their original travel plans), we left to return for Fikkal - only we are stuck. No buses, lorries etc. until tomorrow. We decided to travel west to Birtimod - and have procured a luxury air-conditioned room with mosquito nets. Despite gaining a big suntan and having a laugh we are very disappointed not to be in India right now.

After eating Daal Bhaat (plenty of chilies), and sitting on the roof, avoiding huge cockroaches, we looked over Birtimod and pondered on many interesting thoughts. People lay below, sleeping open in the streets by their small shops, and we hear the clatter of children washing plates. What I originally described as weird is now almost normal - home seems so far away, so different and fitting back in is going to be difficult.

I've just seen  (in our room) a six inch spider!!!

01/04 1993, Naya Bazar NE Nepal (7500ft) [To this day (2003) this was one of the most beautiful days walking I have ever experienced]

April fools day it is and April fools day it has been. Early this morning we travelled back from the Terai, by bus/meat grinder, and yes it was hell. We arrived in Fikkal about 10am where we ate and then decided to move on to Sandakpur (10,000ft)- bad move!!! [This is an unmapped trek into the mountains bordering Nepal/India] After consulting with the locals in Fikkal we decided we could walk to Jobare, stay in a guesthouse and then trek onto Sandakpur. The journey began. We traveled through untouched valleys, rural and beautiful beyond anything I have ever seen. We were taking a considerable risk walking through the Himal and as the walk became harder we grew worried. it took us five hours, through beautiful lost valleys and small hamlets, up mountains and along winding pathways until we eventually found refuge in Naya Bazar. Here we found a man who can speak some English and we have been fed - we shall stay here until tomorrow morning. My worst fear is that one of us will become ill in such a remote isolated area. Crossed a dodgy bridge today! Traveling like this - off the beaten track and completely away from any other westerners is brilliant - even if it does scare the shit out of you! Our host here is called Ram Rimal.

02/04 1993, Jaubarri - Small hill settlement

The trek here was a hard one and we climbed to a height of 10,000 ft. We passed through forested areas before they thinned out. Richards water filter has seemed successful so far. As we climbed higher we could see Sandakphu at 14,000ft!! This point at least, is on our map! So from where we are now we have a full days walking uphill. School will have to wait. I am not leaving until I have seem Everest - not after this unbelievably long walk of about 65km!! Jesus, I can't believe that the guys in Fikkal said it would take about five hours!!! We arrived in Jaubarri at about 12 noon and settled into what is called 'The Everest Lodge'. This is where we rested, and later began talking to the friendly locals. This village is so remote and really typifies rural, traditional Nepali life. We sat  by an ancient stupa on top of the hill, looking over Kachenjunga - partly obscured by cloud, waiting for tomorrow. Feeling tired we took Daal Bhaat with the locals. After dinner the topic of 'grass' reared its head as usual and to my horror we were provided with a bag of marijuana. Hmmm.

03/04 1993, Sandakphu

We set off from Jaubarri at 08:00 and began walking towards Sandakphu. The walking was extremely tough - a real uphill struggle. From Jaubarri I saw the full Himalayan range. It is truly beautiful. I could see Everest for the first time; a small peak in the far distance. We took many rests and passed through a couple of tiny hamlets, one was an old Tibetan temple where we stopped and ate Daal Bhaat. Moving on we began to climb and we eventually passed through snow! We met two Swiss girls - one had broken her leg! She was not in too much pain and sat in the burning sunshine waiting for a jeep to come to the rescue. It was at this point that we realised that our jaunt out of the Nepalese wilderness had brought us in line with a reasonably popular route from India!!

We reached Sandakphu about 16:00, expecting a nice lodge and a shower. We found an old hut in a barren place. The weather is so cold at 13,000ft and we are currently huddled shivering around a small charcoal fire. We have met two Australian guys here - Andrew and Ashley - they are even less prepared than us!! Ashley has a blood empty glass whiskey bottle as his water container - I cannot believe it!!! Tonight will be cold and I am wrapped up warm. I'll rise early tomorrow to see from the viewpoint the whole Himalaya!! Fikkal is now approximately 75km away - not too bad for three days walking UPHILL!!!

04/04 1993, Jaubarri & Everest Lodge

Last night was sleepless due to a combination of the altitude, over exhaustion and a relentless anticipation of the forthcoming day. After Daal Bhaat we retired, and positioned by the window I set my alarm for 04:30 eager not to miss any potential viewing time. The night was long and extremely cold - we were all restless. 04:30 came and I looked outside to see nothing but thick fog. I was not giving up that easily - 05:00 - I looked up and WOW!! The fog had evaporated, and now outside, dressed in every bit of clothing I had, I sat and looked upon a range of mountains that stretched East to West - the perfect panorama and everything I had dreamt about. I am 19 years old and making it happen on my own. As the sun slowly rose across the horizon Everest began to light up with a flare of orange that contrasted with the blue night shades of the visible middle and upper atmospheres. One by one as the sun climbed each peak was switched on by height and by distance - the colours of the rainbow splashed across all I could see. Every peak was there; even those high peaks in distant China and Tibet were visible and a carpet of cloud hung below like an Ocean suspended in motion, boiling and spilling over at the valley edges.

Freezing cold I sat alone photographing every new shade of light, and one by one more sleeping bags appeared around me - each person making his place and finding his peace with the world and its amazing new horizon.

As we departed we all took one last look, standing in awe with no spoken words, what an amazing experience. By about 10:00 they were out of sight and again covered in a protective mist - a secret awaiting the next batch of hardy madmen that make the effort - changing their lives forever. The Mechi zone is now conquered for us.

05/04 1993, The Hidden Valley & Fikkal

Part1: The descent has been long and has taken rather more time than anticipated due to Richard straining his ankle. Again we walked through beautiful sunshine, encountering swarms of crickets and huge dragon flies. We still have a long distance to travel back up to Fikkal  - hopefully we will not arrive too late. In Nayabazar we ate Daal Bhaat at 11:00! On the way down I filtered some stream water. I am now sat behind a huge erratic boulder by the river that passes through terraced corn fields. Last night I slept well and we left Jaubarri at 08:00. Ten minutes ago I found a hat made from leaves and grass. This may be the source of a huge tale we spin Kenny and the girls on our return. PS. I have not washed now for almost two weeks - disgusting!! Part2: Arrived in Fikkal just before 18:00, and we met Kenny and told him of our adventure. Fikkal seems like a huge town now and we have just heard a rumour that one of the shops is importing chocolate!!! Karlyan appeared as soon as we arrived home and we are sorry to hear that his son is suffering from pneumonia. The rubbish in the Shack has seriously congealed in our absence of five days! I received two letters - one from Mum and Dad, the other from Laura. I am sorry to hear that my Mini has been sold!! Anyone would think they were not expecting me to return!

06/04 1993, The Shack...

At this present moment (21:26), I am completely out of it due to a heavy session. Today I had the wash of a lifetime - it was beautiful under the bamboo branch. Teaching was as usual - unprepared, and the teachers never mentioned anything about our previous absence. Full moon tonight and something weird is definitely happening. Received a letter from Grandma this morning - toilet paper included. It seems my first letter has also been received back at home! This afternoon I washed my clothes and as a result the shack has taken on the appearance of a Chinese laundry once more. Kenny (our Peace Corps angel!), entertained us over dinner  with stories of his PC mates sexual exploits with young Nepali girls - it seems that one in twenty two take Nepalis home as either their wife or husband. Thank God GAP is only six months - two/three years here is obviously a health hazard! Loving Nepal at the moment - despite being completely sun-burned. We are wondering whether Kenny has had a 'liaison' with Katherine in Darjeeling - he seems rather coy about the whole thing - this would be hilarious!

I woke up this morning after a really heavy sleep. Made some scrambled eggs and then left for school. Teaching was OK - in class 7 a baby suddenly burst into tears! One of the boys had sneaked in with their baby brother  - in my bloody lesson! After five minutes I had to send them outside because I was unable to teach over the noise. It is quite usual for young babies and infants to appear in school - nursed by their older brothers and sisters - and subsequently me.

This afternoon Kenny, Richard and myself, all dressed in shorts, ventured to Karfoc to visit the girls. They had brought us a melted Easter egg and two mouldy jam doughnuts from Darjeeling - cheers! Kenny and I played table tennis and after talking about our forthcoming trip to the hidden valley, returned to Fikkal for Daal Bhaat, six o'clock. There seems to be more insects around this evening. The night atmosphere is humming with nocturnal activity - probably an indication of the rise in temperature.

[If I remember rightly this was written on the 7th, after a few illegal substances]

Wake up 8am. Still spaced. Eat helpings of fried bread and jam. 09:30 have diarrhea. Take diarralite. Feel better. Go to school. Eat bombass in tea shop, I pay because Richard has forgotten his wallet. Teach shit lessons and get covered in chalk. Eat more bombass in tea shop - I pay - Richard still does not have his wallet. Go back to Shack - put on shorts and proceed to get laughed at by locals. Go to market and eat yet more bombass. Buy vegetables. Go back to Shack. Make some soup. Eat Daal Bhaat, come back to the Shack, smoke more drugs and then write stupid diary entries. Go to sleep, dream of 100 beauties. Lovely day.

What a load of rubbish! Taught in school and then went shopping - Richard did actually remember his wallet today!

Today Richard and I taught two good lessons in which we tested the classes. This means we now have piles of marking to do - hmmm. This afternoon I became involved in a teacher-student volleyball game - big mistake! This is a game that severely makes one ache at 5,000ft above sea-level. During the rest of the afternoon I prepared a meal for this evenings party. Armed with two space cakes we began to demolish mushroom stew and rice, then after a visit from Karlyan we ate the cake. One hour later its effect could be seen spreading like a mexican-wave around the shack. Katherine and Sophie crashed out cold, while Richard, Kenny and myself kept the party going with a couple of enormous smokes. About 12pm we all collapsed for good and slept in a big pile under the flashing shadows of the raging electrical storm outside. Today we also received a letter from Natasha and Tanya. It seems they will also be walking the Annapurna Circuit in two weeks time! - this is great news. 07:15 (10/04) - At moment it is light outside and everyone is still crashed on the floor amidst a jungle of condensed milk cans and spilt grains of rice...

We all breakfasted in Fikkal on an assortment of samosas, fudge, Nepali tea and bread with curry. It was good, and we eventually set off on our trek towards the 'hidden valley'. It was a shame that the day was cloudy and after a couple of hours winding down the valley and crossing the fabled bamboo bridge we realised that the weather was not likely to improve. We arrived about lunch time - very hungry, and so out came the 'ginger-space-bread'. This cake was amazing, and completely spaced I was first to brave the cold chill of the river. Slowly I became more submerged and then I had my first swim in Nepal. The others came in and we all became very wet... and very cold. Kenny seems to be a little lost without the Californian weather - so he was out first! Due to the cake the walk back passed fairly quickly and on the way we were into a locals house to drink some tea - lovely! (have a couple of photos). After Daal Bhaat Richard and I finished the day with some Bombass (Nepali fudge), and am now ready to collapse after a long fun day in Nepal.

Life has been pretty normal today - well as normal as life can get here I suppose. After teaching we took our normal dosage of Bombass and tea, and then we wandered back home under the clouds. Richard bravely ventured to have his hair cut in Fikkal today. This process happens in a cupboard sized shop, lined with newspaper and containing a single wooden chair buried amongst piles of cut black Nepali hair. This scene of professionalism hardly fills one with confidence, and when the mustached hairdresser appears clutching what appears to be a huge pair of old-fashioned carpet scissors, most sensible westerners are inclined, I hope, to run - but not Richard. Lucky. Surprisingly it does actually match on both sides.

After Daal Bhaat and another unimpressive bowel movement we walked home under a superb display of continuous lightening and a light downpour of rain. Later we sat out in the mist smoking a giant joint thinking how spooky Fikkal looks sometimes - shrouded in a blanket of mist, the greys and greens of the ram-shackle buildings and remnants of forest. Powder Singh is home again and taught us some more Nepali back at the shack. Oh - and I made some soup today - yummy!!

This morning after breakfasting on thick stodgy porridge we wound our way up the mountain path, past the smelly fly-ridden cow shed, past the private school and up the small hill to our treehouse in the sky. We taught unprepared lessons as usual and then we, or rather I, asked the headmaster for four weeks holiday - starting Saturday. Not going to take 'no' for an answer, and after much head nodding it was settled. Annapurna here we come. Actually I don't think the headmaster understood a single word of what I said but he did nod!

After the usual social intrusions by the locals, Richard and I had a quick smoke before trekking through the mist for Daal Bhaat. I received two letters this evening - one from Mum and Dad, and one from Laura. Mum seems to think we may have a TV and launderette here !! I can't wait to tell her what it is really like here - we have absolutely nothing - not even pillowcases or bedcovers - never mind electricity. Looking forward to Thuche Peaks again [a guest house in Kathmandu - since destroyed].

Today, the thirteenth of April is in fact New Years Day in Nepal. The year 2054 is now upon us. However there are no wild celebrations as although this is a government holiday it remains almost completely ignored. Not much special happened today. Kenny, Richard and I brunched at Kenny's on excellent homemade tortias and Mexican beans, cheese and salad. Later we cruised to Karfoc for a small pasta lunch and a chat with the old headmaster there. This evening we glided into Fikkal for Daal Bhaat - accompanied by my first experience of Raksi Wine! Yuk - tastes like watered down chang with added vodka - although at speed it does slide down quite nicely. During Daal we met several drunk Nepalis celebrating New Year - one of them was the banks assistant manager! Kenny was not feeling too good so we have a couple of joints and then came home for some fried bread and jam. Off to sleep now - I can hear drums beating in the distance.

Today has been an action packed day of epic proportions. After teaching as usual school finished early due to a local wedding. We lunched in in Fikkal choke and then accompanied by several teachers and the Headmaster we went for a huge Tungba [malt beer drunk from bamboo] in the Tibetan teashop. This is a social drink of fermented millet seed in a mini wooden bamboo cask. Hot water is continually poured over the seed, and then after several minutes the resulting alcoholic liquid is sucked up through a straw. We learned several 'naughty' Nepali words - much to the amusement of the teachers, and then we walked to lower Fikkal to see the beginning of the wedding. All three of us [Kenny, Richard and myself] were invited to view the bride before the ceremony. She was dressed beautifully but was crying about the forthcoming event. A Nepali wife has to leave her family (in this case a very wealthy one), to become a virtual slave for her arranged husbands family. It was really quite a sad thing. Her husband, a fat middle-aged wealthy Nepali/Indian from Silugari (the Indian Terai), seemed unsuited and I took photos of them in the nicely prepared wedding box outside. Afterwards, with half of Fikkal and our students watching, we were individually forced to dance to live Nepali music - much to the amusement of everyone. Arms waving high, legs in the air we really made excellent fools of ourselves. Will I ever be normal again?!?!? Then the weirdest thing happened - out of nowhere appeared two minibuses packed with Japaneese tourists - leaning out of the windows taking pictures of 'a traditional Nepali wedding', only all they actually got was two English dancers performing for an entire village - how bizarre.

Kathmandu tomorrow. I'm not sure if it's the prospect of tomorrow or whether I've magically entered another dimension of enjoyment today. The day itself has been quite normal, although it has been marked by the appearance of 'the good english teacher', but I feel great. I booked our bus ticket this morning, and even the oncoming journey in a 'meat-grinder' surrounded by the usual chundering Nepali's sounds like fun! Packing and cleaning today felt weird. I actually felt like we were leaving home, and not just going on holiday. To celebrate going to Kathmandu, Richard and I have eaten 1/2 kilo of Bombass back at the shack [Nepali equivalent of fudge]. It seems like everything has an order at last. Kenny expects us to find Kathmandu too much after Fikkal - and mixing with the other Gappers may be weird since our experiences will have been so different. Sunday in Easter Sunday - we may even go to church, but I'm really looking forward to phoning home. Fikkal is now working for us and in one respect it is a shame we are leaving at the moment - but I think we deserve a break.

We were seen off in Fikkal by the locals and positioned behind the driver in the cabin, we were rammed in and ready to endure the journey. As usual we suffered twenty hours of hell - but with a difference. Being sat in the cabin I saw things that made me cringe. I counted six buses on either side of the road, some turned over and others with punctures. The road varied from non-existent to not bad. In some places we were even driving on a strip of tarmac one metre wide, playing chicken with every vehicle that came in the opposite direction. The seats were uncomfortable and my position was made worse by the addition of a cockerel between my legs - great. We were held up by the usual stupid road-workers and we put up with sleeping Nepalis all over the place. During the night the bus drivers changed, and in order to keep the new madman alive we kept on feeding him cigarettes.

Our bus contained an assortment of eastern people. We had Tibetan refugees, Tibetan monks both young and old, an ex-Gurkha soldier, plenty of 'normal' Nepalis and a chicken. As we neared Kathmandu the bus driver requested that we put one of our cassettes into the 'sound system'. Richard enthusiastically produced his Motown album - they loved it! ... succeeding in Nepal, as Richard would say.

...continued - Himalayan Country Kitchen...

This bus journey lasted a dismal twenty hours. Getting off the bus in the crowded bus pack we were hassled for 'taxi', 'rickshaw' ...

Coming Soon... (23/4/93)...

In the morning, and still feeling ill, I completed the inventory of all the required trekking gear, and then we all headed for the lake - taking several boats out.

Tristram and I had one boat, the girls another and Richard and Gilbert a third. We went swimming and generally had a laugh until we realised that it was going to take about an hour to row back to shore and there was a storm about to brake above us! After a hectic paddle we landed just before the rain started to pour - about 14:30. On returning back to our guest house we drank coffee - but feeling ill I decided to go and lie down. Before I went I sat on the roof under the straw rain cover and within seconds a bolt of lightening cracked with an almighty bang about 30 metres to my left. I saw a huge white ball of energy and was so shocked! Gilbert thought a bomb had gone off and almost dived to the floor  - feeling static on his tongue. It was amazing and Frank ( the resident hash-head), saw part of it hit the lake! This evening I am feeling bad and cannot eat properly. If I am still ill tomorrow I may decide to stay in Pokhara rather than spoil the expedition for the others.

04/05/93....The day began nervously. I think this was due to reading the commemoration plaques inside base camp to those that have died on the pass. One that sticks in my mind was 'Richard James Kerr, February 12th 1991'.

The hike up from base camp at 05:20 was tough and we had a great view of the mountains as the sun began to rise. From the start I decided to take it slow, always grasping for air. As we came upon the first major rise ice sheets cascaded left to right making each step a dangerous balancing act. The route ahead rose amongst heaps of glacial debris, and the occasional large boulder provided a much wanted resting point for pack and man. I passed Hillary suffering from a bad headache - she was going to have to turn around - I almost felt guilty for feeling so good, although exhausted. Snow patches covered some of the ice and rock, space changed by towering rocky peaks on all sides. The false summits that we frequently encountered did not dishearten me as I was carefully gauging distance by my watch. As we went higher the oxygen level dropped massively and we were down to less than 50% - I knew we would be OK just so long as we could get off the ice before the sun hit the slope and turned it into a deadly nightmare. I was wearing four layers, including the down jacket and I wasn't hot until the sun fell over the mountains. Within minutes the snow started to soften and the going became very heavy. At one point I had to cross a small ice covered river -  ended up on my side and was very lucky not to take a more serious injury than a bruise and a few small cuts.

I reached the summit - a collection of prayer stones and flags after four hours and twenty minutes - second person out of all starters (approx. 20). No words can adequately describe the emotions of achieving such a major climb, but words can describe the descent - bloody awful! Coming down the other side was literally a 2km scree - at one point on my arse.

Muktinath now I have arrived is brilliant - I've had a hot hydro shower for 20rps, a bed in the dorm costs 5rps and the food is excellent. I'm so pleased to have done the pass. I'll always remember this achievement

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